Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
